The best gnocchi

Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Prick the potatoes a few times with a fork, then place directly onto the oven racks and bake for 1 hour, or until the skins are crisp and the flesh tender when pierced with a knife

Let the potatoes cool slightly, until you can handle them comfortably. While warm, halve and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Use a potato ricer or push the potatoes through a sieve onto a clean work surface or large chopping board. Spreading into an even layer.

Beat the egg yolks together in a small bowl, then drizzle over the potato. Sift the flour over the top. Using your hands or a bench scraper, gently bring together, kneading to form a soft, smooth, even dough. Try not to overwork it, as this makes the gnocchi tough.

Divide the dough into 4 portions. On a floured surface, roll each into a long rope about 2cm thick. Cut into 2-3cm pieces. Roll each piece gently over the back of a fork or gnocchi board to create ridges to help the sauce cling, using your thumb to press it away. At this point, you can freeze the gnocchi for another time.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the gnocchi in batches – don’t overcrowd the pan. When they float to the surface – after 2-3 minutes – they are ready. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large tray lined with a clean tea towel.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the sage leaves and cook for 2-3 minutes until the butter turns golden and nutty and the leaves become crisp. Lift out the leaves and set aside on kitchen paper. Finely grate a pinch of nutmeg and stir into the butter.

Add the drained gnocchi to the butter and toss gently to coat and warm through. Season with freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately, with the crispy sage leaves and a generous grating of parmesan.